Sir Chris Bonington, elder statesman of British mountaineering, celebrates his 90th birthday on Tuesday.
The Everest summiteer admits he can no longer climb in the greater ranges, but will celebrate the day with a walk round his favourite local Lakeland fell, High Pike.
Sir Chris, who began climbing in 1951 at the age of 16, has pledged to complete the work of his late friend and mountaineering companion Doug Scott, in raising funds for the restoration of the Sherpa Heritage House, in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
The building was devastated by a major earthquake nine years ago. Scott founded the charity Community Action Nepal, which has so far raised £150,000 to complete the first phase of the renovation. The house is the ancestral home of Pertemba Sherpa, who was head Sirdar – lead Sherpa – on the 1975 expedition that saw Scott and fellow climber Dougal Haston reach Everest’s summit via the south-west face. Bonington, who led the expedition, aims to raise the cash to complete the second phase of the work, to establish a museum, photography gallery, and tea house to raise the income of the local community. Scott died of cancer in 2020, before he could see the completion of the project.
Sir Chris said: “I can’t climb like I did any more, but that doesn’t mean that my spirit of adventure has diminished.
“My dear friend Doug made a promise to our great friend Pertemba, and I intend to see that it is kept. Community Action Nepal has been doing wonderful work for 30 years, and the restoration of the Sherpa Heritage House is of critical importance. I was so fortunate to be immersed in the traditional Nepalese and Sherpa culture during my expeditions to the Himalaya, and it is vital to preserve that during a modern era where so much about climbing has changed.
“We must never let the pivotal role that the Sherpa community plays in Himalayan expeditions go unseen. The house is a physical demonstration of that and a crucial part of sustaining the relationship between visiting climbers and local Sherpas, which plays such a fundamental role in the Nepalese economy.”
Reflecting on reaching the age of 90, Sir Chris said: “I’m grateful that I’ve had such a full, and fulfilling life, and have been able to spend so much of it indulging in my love of climbing and the outdoors.
“Through that, I have met so many great people and organisations, and formed some deep friendships. Having reached the age of 90, I have seen a huge amount of national and political change, and I think that gives me a balanced view of the challenges that we all face today.
“As for my birthday celebrations, I look forward to spending time with my wife Loreto, my wonderful family, and some of my closest friends. We all share a love of the outdoors, so I’m sure that they will join me for a Lakeland walk at some point during the day.”
The nonagenarian’s mountaineering highlights include a first ascent of Annapurna II, the Old Man of Hoy, the first ascent of The Ogre in the Karakoram, which almost ended in disaster with Scott having to crawl for six days after breaking his legs, and Bonington also suffering broken ribs in a fall. Sir Chris reached the summit of Everest at the age of 50.
The Cumbria-based adventurer has had a long association with the outdoor brand Berghaus, and the company created a special, one-off version of its Trango jacket for him on his birthday.
Fellow climber and Berghaus ambassador Leo Houlding, who recreated the Old Man of Hoy climb with Sir Chris in 2014, said: “It must be wild to look back and reflect on all the great trips and positive things you have done for the climbing and outdoor community, with such perspective.
“You’ve been a huge an inspiration to so many, myself included; not just the climbs, but all you have done to share the love of adventure. Your support and friendship over these last decades are deeply valued. Thanks for everything mate and happy 90th.”
Andrew Denton, chief executive of the Outdoor Industries Association, said: “”Sir Chris is the honorary president for life of the OIA and is regarded with undying respect and affection by the UK’s outdoor trade, as an ambassador, a figurehead, a legend and a gentlemen.
“His inspirational pushing of mountaineering boundaries has been instrumental in Great Britain, and British brands, being recognised around the world as reaching the pinnacle of outdoor gear design. The outdoor trade is so very fortunate to call Chris one of our own – and honoured to wish him a very happy, healthy 90th birthday.”