Celebrated mountaineer Doug Scott has died, aged 79.
Along with Dougal Haston, he was the first Briton to summit Everest, climbing the world’s highest peak via the south-west face in 1975.
Mr Scott passed away at his northern Lake District home early on Monday. He had been diagnosed with a brain tumour in spring.
Nottingham-born Scott posted many memorable ascents and was also in later life active in supporting the people of the Himalayan area through the charity Community Action Nepal, which he founded.
Scott made 30 first ascents in the greater ranges and throughout the world. His ascent of Everest was accomplished after bivouacking with Haston in a small snow cave without oxygen, 100m below the summit.
Two years later, Scott and Chris Bonington got into serious difficulties on Baintha Brakk, the 7,285m (23,901ft) Karakorum peak known as The Ogre. He managed, with the help of fellow climbers, to make his way off the mountain despite suffering two broken ankles in a fall.
He started climbing at the age of 13 after his interest was sparked during trips to the Peak District. He was a pioneer of the alpine style of lightweight climbing and excelled at big-wall and high-altitude ascents.
Among notable climbs were Mount Asgard on Baffin Island, El Capitan in Yosemite, Denali in Alaska, Changabang, Nuptse, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma and Shivling in the Himalaya.
Dough Scott was a past president of the Alpine Club and received the Piolet d’Or lifetime achievement award.
He later undertook numerous lecture tours to raise funds for Community Action Nepal.
A spokesperson for the charity said: “He passed away peacefully in his sleep this morning, surrounded by his family. He was in good spirits right until the end and never stopped fighting.”
TH
07 December 2020A great man and an amazing charity worker. Another very sad loss.
Sue Alexander
07 December 2020Another of our climbing heroes gone - how very sad. What a great man.
James Belanger
07 December 2020A great climber and role model for future generations. The climbing community has lost one of its best.
Robert Wisely
07 December 2020Legend forever rip
Dr Terry Marsh
08 December 2020I was peripheral to Doug's life; I used to book him to give lectures at Wigan Pier, when I would man his 'stall' selling books, posters, etc., and he stayed with me a few times when he was giving lectures. For a time he was a member of the Outdoor Writers' Guild during my time as its Secretary. He was enthusiastic and popular with everyone he met, and he told me a few times that what didn't kill me made me stronger. So far that's held true.
Steuart
13 December 2020With the recent death of Hamish MacInnes, we are saying goodbye to last of the generation of pioneering climbers and mountaineers who opened up the world of of the great outdoors to us all. Theirs seems to have been a small close knit community. They struggled to support their passion and innovated in so many ways. Hamish was no2 to Chris Bonnington on the Everest expidition mentioned. Dougal Haston is an equally fascinating character. He died in an accident, almost penniless two years after summiting Everest with Doug Scott. He was apparently choked with his scarf after getting caught in an avalanche. These largely working class climbers were a generation who removed so many obstacles, physical, mental and social to allow us to enjoy the outdoors. I think we all have a duty to remember them and to learn from them. RIP Doug Scott.
Margaret
16 December 2020Steuart, all very good points; though they were inspired by an even earlier generation of pioneering climbers.