Mountain rescuers have paid tribute to pioneering climber and innovator Hamish MacInnes, who has died aged 90.
MacInnes, who lived in Glen Coe, was for many years a member of Glencoe Mountain Rescue Team, including a stint as team leader.
Scottish Mountain Rescue, which represents 24 of the nation’s 28 teams, said it was extremely saddened to hear the mountaineer had passed away.
It said: “Hamish spent his lifetime dedicated to mountain rescue and the great outdoors in Scotland.
“Hamish was known for bringing search dogs to Scotland and setting up the Search and Rescue Dog Association. He played a big part in developing the Scottish Avalanche Information Service and created the iconic MacInnes Rescue Stretcher, which is still used today in rescue callouts worldwide.
“To add to the list of his achievements he also designed the first all-metal ice-axe. He devoted a huge amount of his time, knowledge and experience to mountain safety and mountain rescue.”
David ‘Heavy’ Whalley, former RAF MRT team leader said: “He was without doubt a world authority on mountain rescue and was always willing to advise and assist many of us throughout our mountain rescue lives.
“He was always at the forefront of rescue and I owe him so much for his advice over the years, as do so many that climb in these great hills. His knowledge and his skill as a mountaineer are well known but it is Hamish the man, the leader in his own quiet way that stands out.
“He was a very caring and private man, yet was in regularly in contact with those relatives he has rescued in the past.”
Damon Powell, chair of Scottish Mountain Rescue, said: “Everyone in mountain rescue across Scotland will be deeply saddened by today’s news. We all walk in his footsteps and in his shadow.
“Hamish was the instigator of all that we are and do in mountain rescue today. He set a standard for us to be the best at what we do and we continue to strive to meet that challenge. Our thoughts and best wishes go out to all his family and friends.”
MacInnes was born in Gatehouse of Fleet, Kirkcudbrightshire, in 1930. He climbed the Matterhorn at the age of 16 and posted first ascents, with Chris Bonington, of winter routes on Buachaille Etive Mòr in Glen Coe in 1953.
In 1975 he teamed up again with Bonington as deputy leader of the expedition to Everest’s south-west face. He also provided safety services during production of films, including The Eiger Sanction, starring Clint Eastwood.
In 2008, he was the first person to receive the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture.
In later life he encountered mental-health problems and spent time in a psychiatric hospital. Hamish MacInnes died at his home in Glen Coe on Sunday.
TH
23 November 2020A great man and innovator. Many people alive today owe their lives to his methods and inventions.
He also fought his mental issues with fortitiude and came out the other side.
Thank you Hamish.
Mike W
24 November 2020This is very sad news.
RIP Hamish (and thanks for helping us all in so many ways).
Margaret
24 November 2020Remember, if MacInnes's audacious plan had come off, it would have been MacInnes and Cunningham who were first to the top of Everest.
Steuart
25 November 2020Too true Margaret, an absolutely audacious plan. None of the money of the middle class mountaineering elite, just talent and drive. A genius of a man.
Ian512
26 November 2020I can picture the scene as the pair of them saunter back into, what is now known as base camp, and saying to John Hunt and his big expedition, 'Aye lads, we've just been to the top,'
Don't think it would have been Knighthoods all round, but I bet the Queen would have loved the story.
Stuart Dodson
27 November 2020Yesterday watched his documentary Final Ascent. What a great man and inspiration to others.
Elsie Cook
27 November 2020Doing the West Highland Way on my own in the mid 90s, walking along the wee back road fae Youth Hostel tae Glencoe village..here comes guy on a bike..OMG it was only HAMISH McINNES..a hero of mine..I’ve read lots of his books...I was taken aback, “HAMISH McINNES!” I shout in happy astonishment! The bike shoogled tae a stop..He was so taken aback...I’m blurting out how much I respected him blah blah...I’d recently been tae the Alps and climbed a 6 grade, 6 pitch rock wall at VALORCENE, an amazing, exciting..the most exciting thing I’d ever done in my 50 years on this planet..me who’s scared of heights...I couldn’t wait tae tell him....he was awful shy, confronted wae this over excited loony...I’ll never forget that meeting as long as I live! What an amazing day..what an amazing guy..a Scots hero! RIP BIG MAN! X