The list of starters for one of the country’s most gruelling long-distance events was missing one significant number.
With past master Mark Hartell otherwise engaged, racing on the other side of the Atlantic, there was no hiker number 1 as 382 souls stood in anticipation on a blustery sports field in the Yorkshire Dales for the start of the Fellsman. The winner’s trophy was up for grabs and a new name would adorn it.
Ten hours and 50 minutes later, with 100km (62 miles) behind him and 3,350m (11,000ft) of ascent under his fellrunning shoes, 28-year-old Warwick runner Jez Bragg allowed himself a small smile as he crossed the line at Threshfield to the applause of spectators and hike organisers.
A Fellsman novice had won the 47th event – and by an impressive margin of 1½ hours.
High winds and a spell of atrocious wet weather made the going tough this year, and 139 competitors failed to make the finish.
Bragg took the lead around the half-way mark and never looked back, contending better with the cold and gales and capitalising on the two hours’ worth of severe conditions, including sleet and hail, to pull ahead of the two others runners at the front of the field.
First woman back was 46-year-old Sarah Rowell, in the top ten runners with a time of 13hrs 45mins.
The Fellsman started life 47 years ago as a challenge hike – competitors are still referred to as hikers though 80 per cent of those taking part probably class themselves as runners – and for many, simply getting through the event is their goal. The terrain is tough, with most of the Yorkshire Dales’ peaks crossed, along with energy-sapping peat bogs and whatever the Pennines weather can throw at you. Last year, 11-times winner Mark Hartell struggled in above average temperatures. This year, overheating would not be a problem.
Add in the difficulty of night navigation for all but the fastest runners, and you have an event that tests the stamina, fitness, mental strength and all-round fellrunning and walking abilities of even the toughest competitors.
Even more remarkable then, that a complete newcomer to the event should run away with the title. Jez Bragg, a construction project manager, barely knows the area, yet stamped his authority on the Fellsman.
Speaking just minutes after crossing the line at Upper Wharfedale School, he told us he thought he could probably improve his time with a better knowledge of the route: “I’ve never run the Fellsman race before. I’ve obviously checked out bits of the route to get it right today, and even so some of my lines off the hills weren’t as good as they could have been, so that’s something to work on.
“Off Dodd Fell I got it a bit wrong and off Great Whernside as well, towards the end, I didn’t take a great line.”
There’s no arrogance in the statement; just an acknowledgement that a novice is going to make mistakes. This is not a testosterone-fuelled ego-filled sport. Like previous master of the Fellsman Mark Hartell, Bragg is unassuming and understated about his achievement. Hoofing the terrain the hike crosses for hours on end gives plenty of scope for contemplation.
Food seems to be a recurrent theme on an event that sees participants burn off a huge amount of energy and the nine roadside checkpoints along the route provide much needed calories. Previous favourites have included the organisers’ home-made flapjack. This year’s winner rates the bourbon creams and cocktail sausages that sustained him.
Finding your way across 100km of difficult fell, moorland and bog is no stroll. How did the novice Bragg find navigating the route? “I was probably relying more on my running ability than my navigation. It’s one of those courses and events where I think, year-on-year, you can get your lines better and improve and you’ve got to work on it.
“It all adds up; there are lots of little lines you can take all over the place and I think if you get all those right, that’s what you’ve got to do – plus having the right conditions.
And those conditions were not kind this year. The brightness soon disappeared and by the time the frontrunners were climbing Gragareth, the first rains had arrived. The high winds didn’t abate until nightfall and the temperature on the fell tops was close to freezing. Mid-afternoon on Saturday saw the Dales hit by heavy rain driven by gales.
Checkpoint marquees were flattened at various points on the Wharfedale home leg and emergency tentage had to be brought in from the Keighley base of organisers as the bases were left without cover for radio operators and sheltering competitors.
“It started raining coming out of Stonehouse” said Bragg. “The final climb up to Great Knoutberry was grim. We were climbing into the wind and it was just sleet and rain driving into us; it was horrible.
“I think it lasted about two hours. I was getting cold and if it hadn’t have cleared I would have been in trouble. I was running quite lightweight.
“Once the weather had cleared, it’s been a cracking evening. It’s a bit blowy on the tops but it’s nice and cool. I do like it nice and cool.”
The right kit is important too on an event like this. The old days of woolly sweaters and heavy, cleated, leather boots have gone. Now, every gram of equipment is thought over. The Fellsman winner said: “Footwear is the most important thing, though I could have done with leggings today as well; shorts weren’t much good.
“But by the time you realise you need your warm bottoms on, it’s usually too late because you’re sodden through, so you just have to press on.”
How did a first-timer view the event? “It reminds me a lot of the High Peak Marathon, probably because of all the peat bogs and the very exposed, tricky sections,” he said. “Also, it’s like the Long Mynd Hike in an organisation sense. It’s a great event, so well organised. There’s obviously a lot of tradition behind it.
“It’s great. It’s just a classic route, really. It takes in all these great peaks round the Dales. I don’t know the Dales very well; it’s just stunning scenery; really varied, very challenging. It’s just a classic fellrunning route.
“I’m dead chuffed; I didn’t think I’d go that quick. I took the lead coming out of Stonehouse. I think the weather played a part; they must have slowed down – I just tried to crack on a bit.
Everyone hates the bogs of Fleet Moss. What did he think of it? “I hated it too,” he laughed. “You can’t get any rhythm; you’re just up and down all the time. It’s nice when you get past all that.”
Jez Bragg holds the record for the West Highland Way Race, set in 2006 when he clipped 42 minutes off the previous best to complete the 153km (95-mile) route in 15hrs 44mins.
He is also taking part in the Vasque Ultra Running Championships, a series that includes the Fellsman and has contributed to its resurgence as an event. He was lying fifth before the event, and his victory should push him up the leaderboard.
Will the North Face team member be back to defend his title next year? “I think I probably will be back,” he said. “I’ve been meaning to do it for a few years and either injury or other events have stopped me.”
So the tents have been packed away, along with the radio masts and paraphernalia needed to ensure the safety of hundreds of hikers spread around the Dales, and the peat bogs of Fleet Moss and Middle Tongue regain their solitude. And nearly 400 weary athletes will be explaining to incredulous workmates why they are suddenly walking with such an odd gait.
The next race in the Vasque series takes in the easier terrain of Marlborough Downs next weekend.
More immediately, Jez Bragg will be appearing on Wednesday at the Keswick Mountain Festival, where you can listen to his account of his ultra-running exploits. The talk starts at 7.30pm at the Theatre on the Lake.
Jonathan and Suzanne Carter
11 May 2009What a fabulous write-up of the event, written with obvious passion and enthusiasm, taking account of all aspects (organisational and competitive). Well done Bob and thank you!
steve hall
11 May 2009excellent account, informative & balanced. Jez ia a worthy winner and summed up the event very well, well organised with a strong tradition. the event has a real mystique due to its difficulty, the relentless climbs early on and the dark heart of Fleet Moss lurking at the centre.
we ran the Buckden pike checkpoint this year and it was pretty cold through the night! a massive well done to everyone who finished - or got as far as they could - and a big well done to the organisers and CP staff.
Stéphane Marchand
11 May 2009Rain, night, sleet, hail, freezing, wind: it's a fairy tale!
Thank you Bob for this great write-up which light up a flame in the heart. I add this Fellsman on my "Outward Races To Do" list.
Stéphane from France (many thanks to Grough team for this beautiful web site)
John Doyle
11 May 2009Excellent report,yes it was tough this year,very pleased all our club got round OK,and once again fantastic organisation,all praise to all the volunteers who made it possible.All credit to all who set off, the pain of retiring is far worse than those who finish,but hopefully inspiring to finish next year.
Will I be back next year?,let the pain subside for a few days,then the emotions will take over and I will be back,maybe.
Nick Ham
12 May 2009This is a brilliant report that captures the essence of this tough event. It all came flooding back as I read it and looked at the pictures. It was my 5th time and I was chuffed with a healthy PB. Well done to Jez for a superb performance on his first attempt.
Shona Brunskill
12 May 2009That was such a pleasure to read, it reminds me just why I do what I do. I particularly appreciate you thinking to ask Jez his view of the catering, which is something I didn't get chance to do myself. Thank You to everyone who helped on this years' event, as without you all it just couldn't happen, and Thank You to everyone who took part - without you we'd have nothing to organise! Spread the word, we'd love to have a full event next year ;)
Tom Neill
13 May 2009Great write up - 3rd time for me and the first time I had to retire. A special thank you to the organisers looking after the retirees - thanks for your patience and care. Definitely see you all next year!
jol
19 June 2009My first time. I can say I was there! The write up has kept me enthusiastic for next year. Know what to expect. Brilliant Event. Thanks to every one.
Albina at abruzzopassion.com
26 February 2010I admire the night hike part ... great idea to implement along my other walking/hiking products.